Sunday 26 September 2010

Armadillos and cowboys

Greetings from Santa Rosa, New Mexico - we are now operating on Mountain Time: 7 hours behind those of you in the UK. We made an error in a previous post - Florida was actually state number 22 in 21 days! Since leaving Brandon, Florida on Monday morning we've been through Alabama, Mississipi, Louisiana, Texas and today New Mexico. The milometer currently sits at 7,200 as we settle down on the first of 7 or 8 nights camping across some of the wonderful National Parks the south west has to offer.

Monday morning we set out from Florida on what turned out to be our longest day drive so far - just over 570 miles with the aid of an extra hour shifting from Eastern to Central Time. Along the way we stopped to see USS Alabama and not a lot else! On arrival at Shepard State Park, Mississippi, in the throws of a Gulf sunset, we drove round what was a completely empty campsite - sure, there were RVs parked in the electric site area, but by now we do not consider these people worthy of the title 'campers'. We tend to aim for the primitive sites without electricity or water - because we don't need them and because they're cheaper! As expected, we were visited by the racoons, but it was very humid outside so we didn't humour them long - it was still above 80F when I collapsed into my tent - despite sleeping naked as the day we were born (in separate tents I hasten to add) the heat was pretty intense.

Tuesday we awoke to what can only be described as epic tent condensation. It had been a hot night. Thankfully, the campsite had a cold outside shower. We headed toward New Orleans via the coast through little beautiful white-sandy-beach towns. Why they felt the need to populate these resorts with casinos I'm not sure. There was a tiny feeling of guilt as we strolled the white beaches knowing that any oil damage either to economy or directly to wildlife was in part due to our very being as Brits from the land of BP. In to Louisiana and we headed for the tourist area of New Orleans called the French Quarter. Bourbon Street is well worth avoiding should you want to remain unshocked. Other streets wore their Spanish heritage on their sleeve and were an enjoyable walk. We visited the French Market, Mississippi River, St Louis Cathedral, Cafe Du Monde and the old US Mint and just enjoyed ambling around the streets.

Back on the road and we headed north finding a campsite in Louisiana which was similarly deserted. Our nearest neighbours were the friendly armadillos. Another hot night was on the cards so we made good use of cold showers. Duncan awoke in the night to the muffled shuffling of feet outside his tent. With the quite staggeringly bright moonlight casting shadows wide across the site, it was clear for him to see that it was an armadillo sniffing him out.

Wednesday we crossed into Texas and arrived in Arlington, just outside of Dallas where we were entertained by little Riley Jane and her toy bricks. We ventured into downtown Dallas in throws of nightfall with the Men In Black title music upping our secret agent mood, as we aimed for a non descript car park where we were to meet Lisa, a friend from the previous weekends wedding. We ate good mexican food that nigtht, toured downtown and stood on the spots where JFK was shot, whilst avoiding oncoming traffic!

Thursday we visited Fort Worth and the historic stockyards, did some cowboy things and marvled at the size of horns on the longhorns. We continued north to Oklahoma and the state capital Norman. I've seen a few batchelor pads in my time, but this housed 5 guys with a massive lounge and roof deck for watching sunsets, thunder storms and in the words of Josiah, ninjas.

Friday was an out of the car day and we headed in to Oklahoma City. As a first hand recommendation from the Governor of Oklahoma's daughter we went to the OK City Bombing Memorial and museum. It was a pretty moving experience as the museum led us through the timeline of 19 April 1995. Then a quick tour round Bricktown, the charity shops of OK City and then Oklahoma University where Josiah studied. A pig BBQ restaurant filled us up as we went searching for a car wash so we can begin the process of selling the car online for our arrival in Seattle in late October. We also took in a high school 'football' game and headed to a party where I confused many people with my accent but obviously made a good impression as I left with 3 good cds for our journey!

And so we reach today - Saturday 25th September - our 29th day of the roadtrip - almost halfway. We headed west today back through Texas partly along the old historic Route 66. Sadly most of the Texas 66 is covered over by Interstate concrete but we managed to find our way to Amarillo! Almost as soon as we passed into New Mexico, the landscape changed. Wide open views with steps and valley floors and bizarre rock outcrops dotting the horizon. This was the landscape my geography teacher at high school talked so enthusiastically about when we studied water supply in the arid south west of America. Never did I ever think I'd be camping here! It also feeds the imagination of cowboys and indians which makes our very kindly donated cd book about 2 cowboy brothers all the more believable.

Looking back over the first half, I personally wish I had been able to spend more time with our friends along the way. With the prospect of hopefully being employed sometime soon and therefore settling down a bit, I can't say when I'll next get to see these people or America. Looking forward though, the landscapes and national parks we will encounter will be amazing and add much to the adventure tag of this whole experience. Here's to the next 29 days!

Saturday 25 September 2010

Video updates

Just a quick chance to upload a couple more videos:

Driving through Florida doing our dancing-thing!



Weird dancing guy on Siesta Keys beach, Florida (or he was fighting invisible ninjas - not sure which it was)!

Monday 20 September 2010

Jekyll and Bride

It's been a week since last updating and plenty has happened since our time in Kentucky. Unfortunately this is a phone update so there are no photographic or video updates yet. Read on if you have a wee bit of time off!

Sadly a really exciting event of the last 7 days was passing the 5000 mile mark.

Having spent a day relaxing in Kentucky last Monday we moved on down south. Both the weather and accents were becoming noticably more and more different. A night in Athens, Georgia was Tuesday having experienced an adventurous drive through the Great Smoky Mountains. Just before Tennessee hits Georgia there exists a truly bizarre duo of tacky tourist towns: Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. For a mid september weekday to have so many tourists seemed odd. Fair enough if these people were there to experience the wonderful Gt Smoky Mts National Park, but we suspect they were more likely there for Dollywood, International Fertility statues museum, Penguin Playhouse, a giant titanic museum, Christ museum and gardens, The Incredible Christmas Place, and possibly most exciting of all - Hillbilly Golf. An elderly couple from California that we met on the cable car on the way up to the first tee said that if they do nothing else in Gatlinburg, they make Hillbilly Golf a priority! Surely this was not what John Muir had in mind when he conjured up the idea of National Parks! Aviemore and the Royal Mile in Scotland could learn a lot from these places - there are plenty of ways to up the tackyness, no matter how bad us Scots think these places already are. But thankfully, once in the mountains the only distractions were deciding which window to look out of for wonderful views over the park.

Next on our agenda was the open landscape of Georgia on the way to the east coast and Savannah. We had been recommended here by a few people along the way. As nice as it was to be in a city with cobbled river streets, pretty garden squares, nice trees and a spanish feel, there was that all-too-familiar feel of tourism trying to pull you in. One shop we visited for postcards was manned by an Indian woman who immediately tried to hard sell us tshirts with pirates or pubs on the front and when we bought a joke postcard for a laugh she said we'd made a great choice and that the recipe for crab-cakes which adorned the front would be one we'd be sure to enjoy. Most exciting about Savannah was possibly the short journey over the river for 2 mintues in South Carolina. Our evening destination was Jekyll Island on the Atlantic coast. Situated near Brunswick and our first Chick-fil-A restaurant, we entered over numerous bridges and marshland amid a cracking sunset.

Thursday morning was a relief to find that the neighbouring clan of racoons had not stolen Mabel our car or let the air out of her tyres. We went for a swim on one of the most aesthetically pleasing beaches I've ever seen. Whether it was the fact that looking east was only water between us and home or the fact that it was early morning and all the other tourists were just waking up in their plush 5-star hotel beds, but it was good to be back by the sea. Continuing south we soon crossed into Florida - 21 states in 21 days! Taking the coastal road from pretty little St Augustine (where we tucked into a delicious, if not slightly ambitious, 20 inch pizza) to Daytona, we stopped for our second swim of the day in the Atlantic. The currents were phenomenal and the waves bigger even than than the 8 foot 3 Duncan who is growing ever taller as his legend spreads across this vast country. We took the car for a cheeky 2 mintue spin on Daytona Beach as it cost to stay. I have become quite fond of napping in the late afternoon while Duncan drives, so was fortunate enough to miss the terrible driving and equally bad mega-sprawl that is Disney. Like an awkaward growth on the side of a pretty girls face, Disney draws in many from far and wide keen to stare and enjoy, while others like us would rather simply acknowledge it's grotesqueness before moving on to far prettier aspects of the girl, like her accent. Duncan has been far more complimentary towards the southern accent, but our time in Florida has certainly grabbed a small part of my heart as the accent and words have slowly infiltrated my speech in a very endearing way.

Once in the Tampa region we had the delight of catching the end of Peter's stag do and re-acquainting ourselves with the scottish accent - 20 or so guy friends and family had made it over for his and Lindsays wedding. Friday was a chill out day helping prepare the hall for the wedding reception and getting to know some locals from the church before a lovely Cuban restaurant for dinner with wedding guests and bagpipes. If it was possible to handpick your family, our hosts would be up there on the grandparent list - we played Wii bowling and were soundly beaten before the wedding on Saturday. The wedding was beautiful and being in kilts with all our fellow countrymen was a great feeling. Ceilidh dancing with our new friends having talked it up the previous day was a fun time too. Sunday was another relaxing day getting to church in the morning, enjoying a lovely home cooked southern baked chicken, and heading to Siesta Keys for some proper relaxation.

Now it's Monday morning - day 25 of our roadtrip and I think I may have just written a lot more than I expected to! We are currently at 5275 miles and heading along the Gulf Coast. We plan to see New Orleans on Tuesday and into Texas. Oklahoma on Thursday and possibly Friday, before the Santa Fe region and north west for the beginning of the National Parks - Bryce Canyon, Zion, Joshua Tree, Grand Canyon to name but a few before we hit the west coast at some point - our wedding networking appeared to work as we have a number of new friends to say hi to across the southern leg of the journey.

As much fun as it was, and it really was fun, visiting old friends on the 1st leg down the east, we are both looking forward to the open road again and having a more open schedule with which to enjoy the beautiful south.

On a weird note to end - we passed 111111 miles for the cars history. Duncan is genuinely disappointed that we will witness no more big binary numbers on our travels unless we hit 1 million miles...

Monday 13 September 2010

Monkeys Eyebrow

Hello! Yes, there really is a place called Monkeys Eyebrow in Kentucky; and Hippo and Chicken Bristle. Needless facts supplied by my travel book, but ones which nevertheless aid amusement along the way. Today is Monday 13th September and we have a nice quiet day in Lexington, Kentucky. It's due to get up to high 20's / low 30's C so we're off to the pool in a wee while.

Day 14, having successfully engineered our way out of Manhattan and paid numerous toll road fares, we made the trip down to Washington DC. Along the way we have been playing the registration plate game, trying to spot plates from all the states. Day 14 was a big day as we notched Rhode Island and New Hampshire. We only have New Mexico, Louisiana, Hawaii and Alaska to go. Driving down to DC it felt good to be on the road again having felt somewhat confused in NYC. It's so squashed and busy and noisy in there, yet at the same time there is something inspiring and mesmerising about all those bright lights and sky-scrapers. We arrived on the outskirts of DC and took a train in and walked around the Capitol Hill area looking into some museums, playing a bit of frisbee and just generally being tourists. That evening was the first time that I felt genuinely fed-up of the food. I just wanted a salad or some potatoes, but they were nowhere to be found. Whilst watching the sunset from the Capitol building, we got chatting to a randomer out for a run who it turns out was a professional pianist who just played a few concerts in Finland with a guy from Scotland who went to Duncan's high school. Small world.

Having spent the night at a house on land once farmed by George Washington we went to see his old mansion and had a good look around his former grounds. And then... The drive we'd both been waiting for. It took us 5 hours 20 minutes to drive 105 miles along the Skyline Drive in Virginia. With a 35mph speed limit, this road offered spectacular views, 270 degree corners and the need to drive rather than sit on cruise control. There is no way to properly describe how exciting it was, other than to say that the black bear which ran across the road right in front of us only filled our thoughts for a few minutes before turning back to incredible apexes, inclines and views. Had we driven this road say 2 weeks later, we're both pretty sure that the onset of Fall / Autumn would have dusted the road with layer upon layer of red and brown leaves and made the experience all the more amazing. We managed to find a campsite that evening and survived the night, perhaps being too smelly from our travels to be on the local bears menu.

Day 16 was a fairly routine drive west into Kentucky. Kentucky is the 17th state we've been in, along with DC. We've also now done over 3,800 miles without breaking down. So today, day 17, as our hosts are in class all day, we have their keys to the pool and access to a tennis court so aim to make the most of it.

The link to the photos I posted about a week ago has been updated and there are another 45 photos on there - just a selection of some of the fun we've been having!

We hope you enjoy watching a few short video clips of things we've done along the way :)
Make sure to click on the volume button to get sound!

Welcome to Nebraska!:


Duncan on his way to winning a $100 cheque:


The musical stairs of Cornell University - throw stones to hear the noise:


After more than 3,500 miles of Interstates and corn, the following 105 miles of Skyline Drive were spectacular:

Friday 10 September 2010

The Mid-west

As we're still limited to the phone this won't be a long post; just a brief overview of the basics. Both alive? Yes. States covered? 11 (Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, Indiana, Illinois, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York). Miles done? 2780 at present.

Having bought our car we travelled north on day 1 through Michigan and had a wonderful afternoon on Houghton Lake tubing and speed-boating. We then continued north onto the Upper Peninsula where we had a fantastic day 2 swimming in Lake Michigan in 33C heat before camping on the shore. Day 3 we drove west through Wisconsin, sampled some crazy cheese with beer in it before arriving in St Paul, Minnesota where we had a lovely drive/tour round downtown.

Day 4 lead us due south through S. Dakota and to Omaha, Nebraska. Day 5 and we visited Omaha Zoo and then to state capital Lincoln where sweetcorn flavour and maple + bacon flavoured ice-cream awaited our arrival, along with some mammoth thunder storms.
Day 6 was a rest day, so Andrew took us to his grandparents house where we ate like Kings and saw lots of old John Deere tractors and corn and got to sit in a combine harvester.

Day 7 we began the big trek east to Pella, Iowa stopping off in Des Moines where we found a great British pub, watched some rugby and ate fish + chips and bangers + mash. That evening, Shayna took us to her college student union where Duncan won a $100 cheque in a college gameshow. Our biggest drive so far was day 8 as we drove through Iowa, Indiana, Illinois and into Ohio where we camped for the night.

Day 9 we made it to Parkside Church, Cleveland and then to our hosts where we relaxed and unwound for 2 days. Being labour day weekend, we were again treated + fed like royalty, much to our delight! Day 11 back on the road and through Pennsylvania to New York where scenery was the most beautiful so far on the road trip, yet roadworks were the worst. A night at Cornell University in Ithica, before day 12 drive into New York city to stay in the Bronx. Today, day 13, was an enjoyable day in Queens at the US Open tennis, representing for Scotland seen as Andy Murray couldn't.

We head south to DC next, then through Blue Ridge mountains to Kentucky and down to Florida via South Carolina.

We've been far too well looked after by friends along the way. They have been very generous and caring, and we've been made to feel very welcome. Our car, recently nick-named Mable the Sable, is trundling along very ably so far, and our Scotland flag still flies proudly. Cruise control has been widely used by us both and we finally got hold of some cds as the radio was starting to grate a little.

We'll update you in a week or so, assuming we don't melt in the Florida sun or get eaten by bears in the mountains!

Monday 6 September 2010

A selection of photos

Some photos - when we get chance, I'll add some more on there.

A fuller update due later today...

Saturday 4 September 2010

1878 miles and still rolling...

Greetings everybody. Sorry it's been so long since our last post. We've simply been too busy. Hopefully we can get off the phone and onto a computer over the weekend to properly update you on stories such as water-based activities in Michigan; crazy cheese in Wisconsin; way-nicer-than-detailed-in-the-travel-book experiences of downtown Minnesota and Nebraska cities; getting locked in 80,000 seater Nebraska football stadium; John Deere addictions; rain; world records and minor fame in Iowa; along with the first official outing for the kilts. We're about 90 miles from Chicago so I should get in a now routine afternoon nap before my next driving shift begins.