Whales, Elks and Giants.

As I look through my photos to try and remember what we've been up to the last few days, I'm starting to realise how much we've done. Mabel sits at just over 11,800 miles and today we cross into state number 35. All in under 8 weeks - it's quite something.

Lassen Volcanic National Park was fun - we saw geothermal activity overload, as water bubbled at the surface, mud glooped and splattered and sulphur filled the air with that horrible stench of out-of-date egg sandwiches. We survived Bumpass Hell without falling in which was a bonus, as we kind of need our legs for the rest of the driving.

We'd been sort of warned away from KOA campgrounds (Kampground Of America) before we left, being told they are not great value for money as they offer way too many services for those in a tent. Well, Monday night in Eureka! (unfortunately the signs for the town didn't have an exclamation mark) we decided to go to a KOA as it was close by, not too expensive now that Winter rates applied, and yes it was over-serviced but that's ok. We were treated to an average size plot, but with the bonus of free mini-golf on site, hot tub and outdoor heated pool. Hot showers were also free. Given that it was mid October, the site wasn't too busy so I can't say I would have liked sitting in the pool with 30 other sweaty travelers. We met a group of Swiss cyclists in the hot tub who had been cycling down from Alaska to Mexico, and a girl from Boston cycling all the way across from east to west.

Tuesday was the day we had to bite the bullet and leave California. Having hit the coast again, the sun was out once more, the shorts and sandals were looked out again and it felt like summer. On the coast was cooler than the valley but so much warmer than in the mountains. We continued up the Highway 1, but now slightly faster as it became US101. We stopped along the way to see massive waves smash the coast; to see elk eating in a meadow; to see giant monoliths stand tall and proud on the beach shores; to watch 100s of sealions run into the sea (if selions can run that is); and most exciting of all - to watch whales hit the surface, spout water into the air and turn over, before disappearing again for 20 seconds. Incredible stuff. We've seen quite a few now, so consider ourselves to be expert whale-watchers! We took a walk on a path to see "Big Tree" - a Giant Redwood tree almost 300 feet in height and with a girth bigger even than the largest of all Americans we'd seen. These trees rocket up and seemed to merge with the sky, tall as they were. At the Trees of Mystery, we saw a giant Paul Bunyan who was bigger even than Duncan and some frankly plain odd stuff. Tucking into a giant Safeway sandwich which lasted 4 meals each, we watched yet more whales swimming in the bay area. Crossing into Oregon in the darkness, the mist started to once again roll of the coast. We had to let someone else fill up Mabel - gas stations in Oregon have to do it for you. Finding a remarkably busy campsite we stopped for the night near a lighthouse - no free hot tub or pool here though - back to good old fashioned camping.

Yesterday we continued up US101 along the entire Oregon coast. The views were great and sort of reminded me of Scotland. Huge waves and rocky shores, with sandy beaches dotted along. The only difference being that the waves crashing and smashing did so with the warmth of the sun and blue skies. We found ourselves at the "D" River - the shortest in the world, at 120 feet long! Continuing up the coast we were disappointed to realise that it would be darkness before we made it to Astoria - filming location of great films such as Free Willy, Short Circuit, and The Goonies.

Last night we were in Clatskanie and as I type, Julie is cooking us breakfast! We head into Portland today (Thursday, 21st October) and then on up to Mt St Helens and possibly Mt Rainier before Seattle on Saturday. Mabel is in dire dire need of a proper clean, and I dare say we are too.